What did you do to your Bronco Raptor today?

[Justice]

Big improvement on the bumper paint. what did you use?

Rustoleum truck bed liner from Lowe’s. My tape job wasn’t the best. So it need a little touchup. But for now I’m happy with it.

 

[Ape Factory]

Installed the Desert Does It front under seat molle panel and adjustable angle bracket.

 

[TurboS]

Installed the Desert Does It front under seat molle panel and adjustable angle bracket.View attachment 15458

Desert Does IT has nice quality parts, I have their Seat Jackers in the Wrangler and Bronco Badlands.

 

[Ape Factory]

A little expensive for what it is but it'll serve my needs well and most importantly no new holes in interior panels.

 

[JohnGalt]

After seeing some posts on engine bay lighting I installed the TEQ Off-road under hood lighting today. I’m amazed that the “generic” version (TEQ is a Yoda shop) fits perfectly.

It’s not the cheapest option ( compared to Amazon 12” strip kits), but it’s currently $55 instead of the suggested $115 price from TEQ.

It comes with a 40” LED strip that provides plenty of light, shielded cable harness, inline fuse, a negative switched plunger and override button switch. Also includes plenty of cable management bits to tidy up the install. The finer points, the amount of light it throws and the perfect fit make it good value IMO.

I centered the strip on the hood in the only logical place it will go. It adhered nicely, but I had to leave a couple of gaps to conform to the under hood contours. I popped a two of the big plug clips using a panel tool on the insulation and routed the cable under the installation. The clips took a little coaxing to get out but went back in firmly.

Routed the wiring “harness” along some existing cables on the drivers side. The positive connected to the battery with just the right amount of slack, nothing extra.

I chose to drill a hole in the battery hold down bracket to mount the plunger switch. And again just the right amount of cable to be able to reasonably attach the spade connection, but nothing more. I mounted the switch to the inside of the fender well using the provided doubled sided tape. Used a few of their cable ties to secure everything, but there really wasn’t any excess cable flopping around.

Took a couple tries to get the plunger set to the right height, but it was easy enough with a couple 12mm wrenches.

Overall install was about 30 minutes taking my time to make sure the harness routed nicely.

Lights up well and evenly.

You can see the override button switch on the fender behind ground and the plunger switch mount here.

Cable exiting the hood insulation

Cable entering hood insulation and the light strip.

 

[Dewars]

After seeing some posts on engine bay lighting I installed the TEQ Off-road under hood lighting today. I’m amazed that the “generic” version (TEQ is a Yoda shop) fits perfectly.

It’s not the cheapest option ( compared to Amazon 12” strip kits), but it’s currently $55 instead of the suggested $115 price from TEQ.

It comes with a 40” LED strip that provides plenty of light, shielded cable harness, inline fuse, a negative switched plunger and override button switch. Also includes plenty of cable management bits to tidy up the install. The finer points, the amount of light it throws and the perfect fit make it good value IMO.

I centered the strip on the hood in the only logical place it will go. It adhered nicely, but I had to leave a couple of gaps to conform to the under hood contours. I popped a two of the big plug clips using a panel tool on the insulation and routed the cable under the installation. The clips took a little coaxing to get out but went back in firmly.

Routed the wiring “harness” along some existing cables on the drivers side. The positive connected to the battery with just the right amount of slack, nothing extra.

I chose to drill a hole in the battery hold down bracket to mount the plunger switch. And again just the right amount of cable to be able to reasonably attach the spade connection, but nothing more. I mounted the switch to the inside of the fender well using the provided doubled sided tape. Used a few of their cable ties to secure everything, but there really wasn’t any excess cable flopping around.

Took a couple tries to get the plunger set to the right height, but it was easy enough with a couple 12mm wrenches.

Overall install was about 30 minutes taking my time to make sure the harness routed nicely.

Lights up well and evenly.
View attachment 15462

You can see the override button switch on the fender behind ground and the plunger switch mount here.
View attachment 15463

Cable exiting the hood insulation
View attachment 15464

Cable entering hood insulation and the light strip.
View attachment 15465

Seems like a reasonably priced (at $55) and well thought out kit. I'm not sure I would ever need this on the Raptor- I just don't need to go under the hood... but I may buy one for my '75 Bronco that has alot of gremlins!! Thanks for sharing!

 

[Ape Factory]

I typically spend a lot of time under hood on all my vehicles. I'd sorta forgotten I'd installed the LED light and popped the hood last night to get battery info (will be doing an Antigravity lightweight lithium soon, should remove about 40lbs from the nose).

It was a very nice surprise when the LED's lit up the entire engine bay and made it super easy to see everything I needed, hands free. And the quality of light is also quite good.

 

[Greybeard]

I'd like to do the same, but use a switch mounted in the engine bay. Any suggestions on where I can find the light strip by itself?

 

[Ape Factory]

You can do that with the Yoda kit. Just hook the negative to ground instead of to the hood switch and use the included switch to turn the light on and off.

 

[JohnGalt]

I'd like to do the same, but use a switch mounted in the engine bay. Any suggestions on where I can find the light strip by itself?

As @Ape Factory said, it includes a manual switch. I’ll probably use the manual switch most of the time, but I decided to install the plunger switch as well to have the option.

 

[Ape Factory]

Got the JCR side racks in and as is usual with JCR, they didn't send all the hardware. Out of all the products I've ordered, they've gotten it right 1/3 of the time and missing stuff 2/3 of the time. Sweet business model.

Anyway...had a bunch of Rotopax stuff already here, two 4-gallon gas tanks along with their new super sweet ODG 5-gallon water container, a couple of low budget traction boards in ODG as well, so I decided to get it all mounted up despite the missing hardware.

Not super hard to install but again, fidgety. Got it all buttoned up and took it out for a spin. Can't see the gas tanks in the rearview but the water jug is visible (had it on the driver's side). I'll have to wait for all of the hardware before I can test with the canisters full. But pretty slick overall. I did go with non-locking mounts and plan on designing something relatively simple for the gas canisters.

I believe my new top is arriving next week so I'll have to take all this off and put it back on again. Good times.