Ford Performance Air/Oil Separator DIY installation

[TurboS]

Installed the Ford Performance Air/Oil Separator SKU: M6766BW30 and removed my previously installed UPR single valve catch can. If I would have had the UPR dual valve I don't think I would have seen the value in changing to this Ford Performance unit.

If your tackling this install project yourself, this Top Side creeper makes it much easier as the Passenger (R) side canister is centered on top of the engine at the back.



The Ford Performance Installation instructions are well written and provides clear photo's.
The Passenger side, shown below, seemed easy and quick enough.

When I got to the Drivers side, the OEM air tube, that this kit replaces, has tamper proof fittings that will break during removal. Then on page 7 of the instructions it recommended to remove the vertical air intake tube in order to remove the air tube lower fitting. This appeared to be the most difficult and time consuming part of the installation. I decided to try removing the lower tamper proof fitting using the pliers shown below which worked quite well and saved a bunch of time in disassembly. Simply grip the pliers with right hand and hold the intake air tube with your left and pull straight up. This technique was easier for me as I was looking straight down from the top side creeper.

Highlighted below upper and lower connection ports.

Then on to the drivers side bracket install, first obstacle was the ground cable path was where the canister mounts.

I removed the ground cable, rerouted between vacuum hose and wiring harness, added wire looming wrapped in electrical tape on the ground cable, then zip tied to wiring harness to hold in place.

Drivers side with supplied hoses attached, I did carefully pull the HVAC line towards the brake fluid reservoir to provide adequate clearance from the canister, thank you to @Roughstock post here.

Completed photo below:

The passenger side canister outlet tube is closer to the hood liner than I would like, curious if others have noticed any abrasions in the "Ford Performance" area on the liner. Pic below take from drivers side front corner with hood closed between latch and safety latch allowing enough space to take the photo below.

 

[Roughstock]

Installed the Ford Performance Air/Oil Separator SKU: M6766BW30 and removed my previously installed UPR single valve catch can. If I would have had the UPR dual valve I don't think I would have seen the value in changing to this Ford Performance unit.

If your tackling this install project yourself, this Top Side creeper makes it much easier as the Passenger (R) side canister is centered on top of the engine at the back.

View attachment 14685

The Ford Performance Installation instructions are well written and provides clear photo's.
The Passenger side, shown below, seemed easy and quick enough.

View attachment 14686

When I got to the Drivers side, the OEM air tube, that this kit replaces, has tamper proof fittings that will break during removal. Then on page 7 of the instructions it recommended to remove the vertical air intake tube in order to remove the air tube lower fitting. This appeared to be the most difficult and time consuming part of the installation. I decided to try removing the lower tamper proof fitting using the pliers shown below which worked quite well and saved a bunch of time in disassembly. Simply grip the pliers with right hand and hold the intake air tube with your left and pull straight up. This technique was easier for me as I was looking straight down from the top side creeper.

View attachment 14687

Highlighted below upper and lower connection ports.

View attachment 14688

Then on to the drivers side bracket install, first obstacle was the ground cable path was where the canister mounts.

View attachment 14689

I removed the ground cable, rerouted between vacuum hose and wiring harness, added wire looming wrapped in electrical tape on the ground cable, then zip tied to wiring harness to hold in place.

View attachment 14690

Drivers side with supplied hoses attached, I did carefully pull the HVAC line towards the brake fluid reservoir to provide adequate clearance from the canister, thank you to @Roughstock post here.

View attachment 14691

Completed photo below:

View attachment 14692

The passenger side canister outlet tube is closer to the hood liner than I would like, curious if others have noticed any abrasions in the "Ford Performance" area on the liner. Pic below take from drivers side front corner with hood closed between latch and safety latch allowing enough space to take the photo below.

View attachment 14693

Excellent write up!

I checked today and.......yep its a rubbing.

When I opened the hood there was a white mark at the back as you can see where the catch can meets. Also a very light rubbing of the hose. i wouldn't even call the hose rubbing. Amazing I didn't notice this the other day when I was emptying the catch cans.

That white mark is concave from the rubbing. In these pics it is a bit cleaner as I took the dust off with my fingers.

As you can see there is considerable rub. When I had the rattle issue when these were installed I reported this catch can, when in drive, shakes a real lot. It vibrates more than you would think. I did a visual inspection of this can while vehicle in drive. Of course the rattle has nothing to do with this catch can as discussed. The vibrating; however, is an issue.

I am hoping the rubbing has stopped since it may have rubbed its way clear of the hood with the concave white spot and the can being rubbed down.

It will be interesting to know what you think and any fix that may be appropriate.

Thanks

 

[TurboS]

Excellent write up!

I checked today and.......yep its a rubbing.

When I opened the hood there was a white mark at the back as you can see where the catch can meets. Also a very light rubbing of the hose. i wouldn't even call the hose rubbing. Amazing I didn't notice this the other day when I was emptying the catch cans.

That white mark is concave from the rubbing. In these pics it is a bit cleaner as I took the dust off with my fingers.

View attachment 14705

View attachment 14708

As you can see there is considerable rub. When I had the rattle issue when these were installed I reported this catch can, when in drive, shakes a real lot. It vibrates more than you would think. I did a visual inspection of this can while vehicle in drive. Of course the rattle has nothing to do with this catch can as discussed. The vibrating; however, is an issue.

View attachment 14706

View attachment 14707


I am hoping the rubbing has stopped since it may have rubbed its way clear of the hood with the concave white spot and the can being rubbed down.

It will be interesting to know what you think and any fix that may be appropriate.

Thanks

Oh no, that's way more contact than I expected. Yours has not stopped rubbing, the engine/powertrain has quite a bit of movement. I'm going to look at modifying the canister bracket to get it as low as possible, from your photo's it needs to be 3/8" to 1/2" lower, that's my goal. Nice you had the dealer install yours as they will need to fix it and it'll be obvious to them.

I'm sure this wasn't Ford Performance's intent, be nice if they sent us updated replacement brackets.

Thank you for posting these photo's

 

[Roughstock]

Oh no, that's way more contact than I expected. Yours has not stopped rubbing, the engine/powertrain has quite a bit of movement. I'm going to look at modifying the canister bracket to get it as low as possible, from your photo's it needs to be 3/8" to 1/2" lower, that's my goal. Nice you had the dealer install yours as they will need to fix it and it'll be obvious to them.

I'm sure this wasn't Ford Performance's intent, be nice if they sent us updated replacement brackets.

Thank you for posting these photo's

Thanks for the input. I will contact my dealer and get it sorted.
Look forward to seeing your solution.

 

[Roughstock]

Thanks for the input. I will contact my dealer and get it sorted.
Look forward to seeing your solution.

I've contacted the dealer hopefully get it fixed next week. At the same time I will get my 30k coolant flush, brake flush and transmission flush done. Good to keep the fluids changed. These days the flushes seem to be excellerated. On my BMW GS Adventure they want to flush the brake fluid quite regularly. They say it has to do with the ABS.

What's a boy to do. Fluid changes are important so I do follow the schedules, excellerated for money or not. Hard to know these days what is actually happening to the fluids.

They said it would be an easy fix for the catch can as expected. I will post the fix for the can. Just waiting to hear back if I can get in next week for the flushes.

 

[TurboS]

I've contacted the dealer hopefully get it fixed next week. At the same time I will get my 30k coolant flush, brake flush and transmission flush done. Good to keep the fluids changed. These days the flushes seem to be excellerated. On my BMW GS Adventure they want to flush the brake fluid quite regularly. They say it has to do with the ABS.

What's a boy to do. Fluid changes are important so I do follow the schedules, excellerated for money or not. Hard to know these days what is actually happening to the fluids.

They said it would be an easy fix for the catch can as expected. I will post the fix for the can. Just waiting to hear back if I can get in next week for the flushes.

I looked at it closer today and decided to call Ford Performance Techline on Monday. This is a FP problem so I'll let them investigate and determine a solution. I feel if I modify any part the kit then I've taken ownership of the problem, one that I don't see an easy solution. The back of the canister top touches the hood before the hood is even completely closed. Both canisters are identical, so they aren't switched and the canister can only be lowered by maybe 3/8" before resting on the fittings below, this still doesn't seem enough, especially considering the intented off road usage. Fortunately I won't be driving mine until spring, in Michigan that's typically end of April beginning of May.

If you have the original air tube that this kit replaces, I would consider removing the air/oil separator canister and attached air tubes but leaving the bracket and replacing with the original tube to prevent any further damage. I wouldn't expect any problem leaving only the drivers side canister installed.