What did you do to your Bronco Raptor today?

bendawg said:
Thanks for sharing this approach. Will you be using the chase light as a 3rd brake as well and removing the obstructive factory 3rd?
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Unfortunately no. The back light really isn’t bright enough to serve as a brake light. The only thing I’ve seen is the Rigid chase pod light that does it all, brake, tail, reverse, chase and courtesy light in one package. Even has a Bronco bracket, just not a Raptor bracket.
 
Small thing today…. “Installed“ Sticker Fab fuse box stickers under the hood and dash. Also threw a box of assorted Bronco specific fuses from Specialty Performance into the tool box as part of the overall “project”.

As I’ve added lights, winches, powered accessories, etc it’s probably time to be prepared for some sort of electrical issue. While I wired everything the “right way”, you just never know.

Only tricky part was pulling the panel under the steering wheel. It was straightforward, came out with firm consistent pull but it’s always a little unsettling pulling a panel for the first time.

For about $10 for the stickers (incl. shipping) and $40 for the fuse set, it’s hopefully cheap insurance to make sure I (or others I'm driving with) get back on the road quickly and safely.

FWIW

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JohnGalt said:
Small thing today…. “Installed“ Sticker Fab fuse box stickers under the hood and dash. Also threw a box of assorted Bronco specific fuses from Specialty Performance into the tool box as part of the overall “project”.

As I’ve added lights, winches, powered accessories, etc it’s probably time to be prepared for some sort of electrical issue. While I wired everything the “right way”, you just never know.

Only tricky part was pulling the panel under the steering wheel. It was straightforward, came out with firm consistent pull but it’s always a little unsettling pulling a panel for the first time.

For about $10 for the stickers (incl. shipping) and $40 for the fuse set, it’s hopefully cheap insurance to make sure I (or others I'm driving with) get back on the road quickly and safely.

FWIW

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I did the same thing the other day. My sticker to the left under the fuse lid is slightly askew. Good thing I can't see it. I also from sticker fab got the small chiicklet stickers for the rocker switches. I put one on really straight. Hopefully the next one when I put on my chase light will be the same. The one thing I found was that there was no 7.5 micro fuse in my SPV kit . I ordered that and two large 40 amp fuses for my ARB compressor. I pulled that lower panel once before for my autostop eliminator and the 2nd time wasn't much better. Came open easily though.

Glad you posted this, I think it is a good precaution and easy to do.
 
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New Rims yesterday!
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RTR Evo 6, Satin Black, 17 x 9, +18, My truck had the black allow rims and I probably wouldn't have changed them if it came with the bead locks. I appreciate all who helped with my decision.
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Roughstock said:
New Rims yesterday!
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RTR Evo 6, Satin Black, 17 x 9, +18, My truck had the black allow rims and I probably wouldn't have changed them if it came with the bead locks. I appreciate all who helped with my decision.View attachment 11481
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Congratulations, great choice and one of my favorites. Not only do they look fantastic but the size and offset is perfect for our Bronco Raptors. That 1/2 inch in additional wheel width makes the OEM 37’s look like a size larger tire.
 
TurboS said:
Congratulations, great choice and one of my favorites. Not only do they look fantastic but the size and offset is perfect for our Bronco Raptors. That 1/2 inch in additional wheel width makes the OEM 37’s look like a size larger tire.
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Thank you. That is interesting. A friend with a Badlands Sasquatch commented that my old truck (Black Diamond with the Roush package - non Sasquatch, my dealer had available at the time) the wheels looked bigger and I thought so too. With that package the the vehicle was lifted about an inch or inch and a half and the tires poked out past the OEM Black Diamond fenders which made the 35's look bigger than the 35's on the Badlands with their larger OEM Sasquatch fenders.
 
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Roughstock said:
New Rims yesterday!



RTR Evo 6, Satin Black, 17 x 9, +18, My truck had the black allow rims and I probably wouldn't have changed them if it came with the bead locks. I appreciate all who helped with my decision.
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Good choice in wheels, now go to 39's :)

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Todays project du jour is a GMRS installation and a very detailed description of it!

I've gotten tired of fumbling for my handheld radio on the trail, the handheld range kind of stinks in the mountains and I'm not always great at remembering to charge them.

I chose a Midland Micromobile MXT275 base unit based on a balance of good reputation, decent strength and cheaper than going up to the MXT575. Plus I've got a satellite messenger if I really get myself in trouble.

I didn't want more clutter in the cabin so I opted for a Mountains to Metal bracket for mounting up in the guts of the dash above the glove box.

I opted for a Midland stubby Ghost antenna for better reception than the basic antenna and frankly I like the look. I also needed an antenna cable and opted for a 13' no name cable.

I got a 3' no name cat 6 Ethernet cable to extend the cable of the paddle control mic. Otherwise, the paddle mic cable would be stretched too tight when in use from the driver's seat.

I mounted the antenna to a Trail Rax Trail sight mount. Price was reasonable, quality great, gets the antenna away from other electronics and again... I like the look.

Installation of everything was actually pretty easy.
You’ll need to pop the glove box out by pressing in clips on each side, popping out the soft close mechanism, letting the box swing fully downward the popping apart the three hinges to completely remove.

The provided MXT275 bracket mounts to the M2M bracket with two screws, then the radio base unit slides and clicks into place. You can connect all the cables before installing the bracket with base unit, but the only cable you really really really want to plug in before mounting is the paddle mic extension cable. It's oriented so you can't plug it one's mounted in the dash. It’s easier to connect the wiring harness and antenna after the base unit is bolted in.

So I fed the M2M bracket with base unit mounted on it up and toward driver side first as there is more room, then I wiggled the other side above the dash brackets. You have to wiggle it around to get it into position, but then it is easily secured with 2 T25 screws provided by M2M into the dash bracket nutserts.

Next I mounted the TrailRax trail site mount bracket. This is super straightforward unless you read the directions. The simple directions specify different hardware than actuallyprovided. A couple of emails with TrailRax and they assured me I had the right hardware and incorrect instructions.

I chose to route the antenna cable and 14 gauge red/black wiring from the battery/traile site bracket as it was cleaner to tuck excess cable up under the dash than the hood. I chose to the power/ground direct to the battery as there is an inline fuse and the unit auto powers off if the paddle mic is disconnected or it times out. I covered the harness and antenna cable with 3/8” split plastic loom and routed everything to the firewall pass through grommet. I wrapped the loom with cloth harness tape to keep moisture out (love that tape so easy to work with).
The grommet pops out easily, but you have to carve (with a razor knife) a good size hole through its very thick rubber to get the antenna cable connector through. Fortunately, the loom fills the hole in the grommet as it passes through.

Then you have to fish the power lines and antenna cable under the dash and past the center console. I slid a coat hanger from passenger side along the firewall above the tranny hump to the driver side to allow me to fish the cable/wiring through. There is just enough room to get the antenna connector through, but I found it was best to feed the wires with left hand (on drivers side) while pulling them on right hand (passenger side). It was awkward, but it allowed me to pull the mess up the firewall an inch or so and then it slid through freely.

I clipped the 12V plug off the Midland provided harness and wired everything together. Connected antenna cable. The bundled the excess antenna cable up and stuffed up under the dash

Lastly I routed the Cat 6 extender through a gap in the center console, removed a screw so that I could get further forward and then left the female cable end so that just peeks out. I'll probably mount in the center console later, but for now I can in plug the mic control and store it when not in use. No clutter. No hole in my dash or console.

A lot of little details, but none of them difficult. it’s working great, but I’ll be quality assurance testing in the mountains on Sunday during our next snow storm.

top view of trail tax mount
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Side view of trail tax mount
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Wiring in engine bay
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Cable routing to grommet in engine bay
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Not a fan of the trail sight mount. I think the antenna is too vulnerable there, even the ghost. Be that as it may, I’ve done a similar install of an MXT575 in my rig. Used the M2M mount as well behind the GC, plus a mic plugin in the console above the wireless charging cubby, then I used a bracket to mount the long 6db antenna to the spare tire mount. Will post pictures shortly.
 
Ironmike said:
Not a fan of the trail sight mount. I think the antenna is too vulnerable there, even the ghost. Be that as it may, I’ve done a similar install of an MXT575 in my rig. Used the M2M mount as well behind the GC, plus a mic plugin in the console above the wireless charging cubby, then I used a bracket to mount the long 6db antenna to the spare tire mount. Will post pictures shortly.
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Yeah, the trail sight mount is a bit exposed. I will probably mount the mic plug in that same spot. Just makes sense, but I have to get up the energy to open up new territory In the console!
 
🌶️ Raptor did Triple 7 at the Winter 4x4 Jamboree; rated an 8. Tough trail. Got high centered and needed a winch. Some minor flare damage.

Where are the flare deletes for the BRs? I would like flares that are a two minute removal for all 4 like the Badlands. Come on vendors, get with the program.
 
ChiliPepper said:
🌶️ Raptor did Triple 7 at the Winter 4x4 Jamboree; rated an 8. Tough trail. Got high centered and needed a winch. Some minor flare damage.

Where are the flare deletes for the BRs? I would like flares that are a two minute removal for all 4 like the Badlands. Come on vendors, get with the program.
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Wow, sounds like fun.
 
Tye said:
Good choice in wheels, now go to 39's :)

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Hi There, I can't remember if you have mentioned this before. Is there a big ride difference on road? Have you noticed burning more gas? I would assume your milage has gone down. I like the idea of of a lift and 39's but I do a lot of cross country driving as well. I am not sure I want to stop and fill up more. I am not saying I won't. Just not sure I want to if that makes sense. I would be interested in your feed back. I am sure off road you notice a difference. They look great! Thanks.
 
Roughstock said:
Hi There, I can't remember if you have mentioned this before. Is there a big ride difference on road? Have you noticed burning more gas? I would assume your milage has gone down. I like the idea of of a lift and 39's but I do a lot of cross country driving as well. I am not sure I want to stop and fill up more. I am not saying I won't. Just not sure I want to if that makes sense. I would be interested in your feed back. I am sure off road you notice a difference. They look great! Thanks.
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Not really a difference on road and gas mileage changed by probably 0.5 mpg
 
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