What did you do to your Bronco Raptor today?

As a fellow fiddler, I “installed” my Rock Slide Engineering EZ Rack spare tire mount.

As far as installations go this was super easy. If you can use a ratchet strap you can install this.

Also mounted a Rotopax DLX mount and 3 gallon gas container on each side.

Proper positioning of the mounts on the ratchet strap takes a little fiddling around. The final position was the sweet spot in solving for the following constraints:

1) Gas containers mounted as vertically as possible
2) Ability to open the tailgate without removing a gas container
3) Symmetrical (OCD issues)
4) Ability to FULLY open the tailgate without smashing the passenger side taillight or having to remove a gas container. It would be easy to damage your Raptor taillight if this isn’t resolved
5) Container not rubbing on tailgate, reinforcement panel or the third brake light pod
6) Ratchet strap maximally centered on the tire

I managed all except number 1, but they need to be positioned pretty much exactly like I did to achieve that. That said, they’re designed to lay flat so my fear of potential leaks is pure paranoia.

Overall, I’m very happy with this removable option to extend range on my very thirsty Raptor. I can also utilize the containers and DLX mounts on a potential future rack purchase If I go that direction later.

Still deciding how to manage the excess strap, probably a Velcro strap and a trim will do the trick.
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I looked at this set up but didn't like the strap part of it. Too easy to be cut quickly and bye-bye. Or am I missing something? I like the location.
 
As a fellow fiddler, I “installed” my Rock Slide Engineering EZ Rack spare tire mount.

As far as installations go this was super easy. If you can use a ratchet strap you can install this.

Also mounted a Rotopax DLX mount and 3 gallon gas container on each side.

Proper positioning of the mounts on the ratchet strap takes a little fiddling around. The final position was the sweet spot in solving for the following constraints:

1) Gas containers mounted as vertically as possible
2) Ability to open the tailgate without removing a gas container
3) Symmetrical (OCD issues)
4) Ability to FULLY open the tailgate without smashing the passenger side taillight or having to remove a gas container. It would be easy to damage your Raptor taillight if this isn’t resolved
5) Container not rubbing on tailgate, reinforcement panel or the third brake light pod
6) Ratchet strap maximally centered on the tire

I managed all except number 1, but they need to be positioned pretty much exactly like I did to achieve that. That said, they’re designed to lay flat so my fear of potential leaks is pure paranoia.

Overall, I’m very happy with this removable option to extend range on my very thirsty Raptor. I can also utilize the containers and DLX mounts on a potential future rack purchase If I go that direction later.

Still deciding how to manage the excess strap, probably a Velcro strap and a trim will do the trick.
Appears to me you were quite successful, they look perfect. Very good point on the spare to tail light clearance, something for us all to check when going with larger tires.
Does the Rotopax spout fit into the BR gas tank opening without use of the very little white OEM funnel located with the jack?
 
Does the Rotopax spout fit into the BR gas tank opening without use of the very little white OEM funnel located with the jack?

Good question. I’ll try it tomorrow and answer unless someone clarifies first.
 
I looked at this set up but didn't like the strap part of it. Too easy to be cut quickly and bye-bye. Or am I missing something? I like the location.
Oh, you’re spot on. You could steal it in a heartbeat. That’s why I didn’t bother with locking Rotopax mounts.

i will only use this set up in situations where I need to extend range off road (Like planned Death Valley trip) which won’t be too often. I won’t be far from the vehicle for long and probably with numerous others. The rest of the time it will be stored in a garage cabinet. I can take that risk.
 
Good question. I’ll try it tomorrow and answer unless someone clarifies first.
last fall I couldn't add sta-bil gas stabilizer without using the little white funnel, at the time I thought it would be a little tricky to add gas with a 5 gal container.
 
Got her Wednesday night. Took her to the forest roads over the weekend. Got a little dirty.

While driving the third brake light is just in the way. Soooo, I took it off! So much better for visibility now.
Welcome to the forum! Great thing with this mod is easily reversible if you should change your mind.
 
Appears to me you were quite successful, they look perfect. Very good point on the spare to tail light clearance, something for us all to check when going with larger tires.
Does the Rotopax spout fit into the BR gas tank opening without use of the very little white OEM funnel located with the jack?
So I did a dry run (no gas, pun intended) today.

I pulled out the Ford supplied funnel from the cargo storage area. That was actually kind of pain removing and replacing as it has a clip to keep it from rattling around, but sliding that out required removing the roll up jack tool kit. No big deal, just more hassle than you’d think.

Anyway… the Ford funnel articulates the anti-siphon gate and sits snugly. But is really small and appears like it would be difficult to avoid spilling with a Jerry can unless you were exceptionally careful. I usually am not.

The Rotopax gasoline containers are shipping with ECO Spouts in the U.S. This spout is straight hard plastic shaped like the Ford spout, but diameter seems a tad smaller. I think this is why I have to jiggle the ECO spout a little to defeat the anti-siphon gate whereas the Ford funnel slides in smoothly.

This would seem to be a problem fiddling around to get the spout while the can is tipped in pouring position. But…….. the ECO spot has a lock/unlock switch. Switch it into unlocked position, then push in the spout, the spout opens when the tip gets past the anti-siphon gate. Maybe more challenging with a full container In real world conditions though.

Hope that helps
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Today’s Mod du Jour….. Oracle Cargo Light

Another straightforward install. The only troublesome part is pulling plastic trim panels, this time the wiper motor cover.

I slipped a panel tool on the drivers side of the cover then worked my way around the “bottom” clip by clip. Then worked at each side clip in the harder to access top. Slow, firm and steady pressure worked like every other time I’ve had the panel tool out lately.

A minor challenge was getting the Oracle Lighted Cover over the two bolt ends. It was tight, but I discovered that a little gentle squeez on the cover gave enough expansion to slip over those bolts.

I also used a couple 10mm nuts in my socket to allow the supplied nylock nuts to get a bite on aforementioned bolts.

Cable routing was easy with supplied clips and I put one on the window piston. The cable slides through nicely with not bunching or potential to get pinched.

Future project will be to get a 12V pigtail and plug to free up the cargo 12V port and keep it easy to remove the top. Another day…

Pics of the stock cover so you can see what clips you’re dealing with and finished product
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So I did a dry run (no gas, pun intended) today.

I pulled out the Ford supplied funnel from the cargo storage area. That was actually kind of pain removing and replacing as it has a clip to keep it from rattling around, but sliding that out required removing the roll up jack tool kit. No big deal, just more hassle than you’d think.

Anyway… the Ford funnel articulates the anti-siphon gate and sits snugly. But is really small and appears like it would be difficult to avoid spilling with a Jerry can unless you were exceptionally careful. I usually am not.

The Rotopax gasoline containers are shipping with ECO Spouts in the U.S. This spout is straight hard plastic shaped like the Ford spout, but diameter seems a tad smaller. I think this is why I have to jiggle the ECO spout a little to defeat the anti-siphon gate whereas the Ford funnel slides in smoothly.

This would seem to be a problem fiddling around to get the spout while the can is tipped in pouring position. But…….. the ECO spot has a lock/unlock switch. Switch it into unlocked position, then push in the spout, the spout opens when the tip gets past the anti-siphon gate. Maybe more challenging with a full container In real world conditions though.

Hope that helps
Thank you for doing a dry run, I was hoping my comment would encourage you for your own sake. (y) Fortunate for the lock/unlock switch as I suspected it may be challenging to fill without having spilling gas on the fender flare. :oops:
 
Today’s Mod du Jour….. Oracle Cargo Light

Another straightforward install. The only troublesome part is pulling plastic trim panels, this time the wiper motor cover.

I slipped a panel tool on the drivers side of the cover then worked my way around the “bottom” clip by clip. Then worked at each side clip in the harder to access top. Slow, firm and steady pressure worked like every other time I’ve had the panel tool out lately.

A minor challenge was getting the Oracle Lighted Cover over the two bolt ends. It was tight, but I discovered that a little gentle squeez on the cover gave enough expansion to slip over those bolts.

I also used a couple 10mm nuts in my socket to allow the supplied nylock nuts to get a bite on aforementioned bolts.

Cable routing was easy with supplied clips and I put one on the window piston. The cable slides through nicely with not bunching or potential to get pinched.

Future project will be to get a 12V pigtail and plug to free up the cargo 12V port and keep it easy to remove the top. Another day…

Pics of the stock cover so you can see what clips you’re dealing with and finished product
Nice! I hadn't looked into this light yet but was one of my future tasks. I'm sure this light will be used often. Would it be possible to wire directly into the cargo light and add a quick disconnect to the wiring for top removal?
 
Today’s Mod du Jour….. Oracle Cargo Light

Another straightforward install. The only troublesome part is pulling plastic trim panels, this time the wiper motor cover.

I slipped a panel tool on the drivers side of the cover then worked my way around the “bottom” clip by clip. Then worked at each side clip in the harder to access top. Slow, firm and steady pressure worked like every other time I’ve had the panel tool out lately.

A minor challenge was getting the Oracle Lighted Cover over the two bolt ends. It was tight, but I discovered that a little gentle squeez on the cover gave enough expansion to slip over those bolts.

I also used a couple 10mm nuts in my socket to allow the supplied nylock nuts to get a bite on aforementioned bolts.

Cable routing was easy with supplied clips and I put one on the window piston. The cable slides through nicely with not bunching or potential to get pinched.

Future project will be to get a 12V pigtail and plug to free up the cargo 12V port and keep it easy to remove the top. Another day…

Pics of the stock cover so you can see what clips you’re dealing with and finished product View attachment 6331View attachment 6332View attachment 6333
Can you get some night shots with the light on? And how does the color hue of the light match to the factory lighting?
 
Nice! I hadn't looked into this light yet but was one of my future tasks. I'm sure this light will be used often. Would it be possible to wire directly into the cargo light and add a quick disconnect to the wiring for top removal?
I’ve seen someone do that using a different light. I will probably do that or tap (more functionality) into the 12V outlet wiring.

I haven’t seen mine in the dark, but it was great in a friends 2 DR. What I like about this set up is that it has one light shining into the cargo area and the others shine down and to the “work area” directly behind the truck.
 
I’ve seen someone do that using a different light. I will probably do that or tap (more functionality) into the 12V outlet wiring.

I haven’t seen mine in the dark, but it was great in a friends 2 DR. What I like about this set up is that it has one light shining into the cargo area and the others shine down and to the “work area” directly behind the truck.
Is there an option to make the lights *red*? Then it would be perfect...
 
Is there an option to make the lights *red*? Then it would be perfect...
Sorry white only. That would be nice. I don’t recall seeing any kit with red option. I’d also like All Off, inward On, outward on, both on, all off switch options.

I have red and similar switch options on my backpacking headlamp. Does t seem like s huge ask for a $140 light.
 
Can you get some night shots with the light on? And how does the color hue of the light match to the factory lighting?
Here are some shots and a couple explanations...

baseline shot with mirror puddle lights. It was actually a lot darker than this the camera did a long exposure and snow may be making it look brighter too. I blew the driveway but still a light layer of snow.

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with The Oracle Cargo light on, but apparently a little farther away.
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focus on the work area. It was plenty bright to do most anything.
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Cargo Area with the window up. Note the “interior light” on the Oracle is blocked in the back a bit from the roof line
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Here’s a picture of interior with the window down so the interior light on the Oracle isn’t obstructed
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Bonus shot! It was raining/snowing like hell going up to Echo Pass this afternoon. Not too much snow on the Tahoe side yet. My rear doors were frozen shut on the rear flares when I arrived.

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Here are some shots and a couple explanations...

baseline shot with mirror puddle lights. It was actually a lot darker than this the camera did a long exposure and snow may be making it look brighter too. I blew the driveway but still a light layer of snow.

View attachment 6341
with The Oracle Cargo light on, but apparently a little farther away.
View attachment 6342
focus on the work area. It was plenty bright to do most anything.
View attachment 6343
Cargo Area with the window up. Note the “interior light” on the Oracle is blocked in the back a bit from the roof line
View attachment 6344
Here’s a picture of interior with the window down so the interior light on the Oracle isn’t obstructed
View attachment 6345
Bonus shot! It was raining/snowing like hell going up to Echo Pass this afternoon. Not too much snow on the Tahoe side yet. My rear doors were frozen shut on the rear flares when I arrived.

View attachment 6346
Impressive lighting, another must have mod! Thank you :cool:
 
Here are some shots and a couple explanations...

baseline shot with mirror puddle lights. It was actually a lot darker than this the camera did a long exposure and snow may be making it look brighter too. I blew the driveway but still a light layer of snow.

View attachment 6341
with The Oracle Cargo light on, but apparently a little farther away.
View attachment 6342
focus on the work area. It was plenty bright to do most anything.
View attachment 6343
Cargo Area with the window up. Note the “interior light” on the Oracle is blocked in the back a bit from the roof line
View attachment 6344
Here’s a picture of interior with the window down so the interior light on the Oracle isn’t obstructed
View attachment 6345
Bonus shot! It was raining/snowing like hell going up to Echo Pass this afternoon. Not too much snow on the Tahoe side yet. My rear doors were frozen shut on the rear flares when I arrived.

View attachment 6346
It runs off your main battery currently, right? I assume there would be a way to wire it to an auxiliary power source?
 
It runs off your main battery currently, right? I assume there would be a way to wire it to an auxiliary power source?
Yes it currently runs off the main power using the 12V Power outlet in the cargo area. The light comes prewired with this plug.

I’ve seen installations of other lights that tie into the woeful OEM light OR you could tie into the upfitter wiring point that is in the passenger side rear end. I’m guessing it’s behind the plastic panel where the cargo light and 12V power outlet reside. I just haven’t dug into this area yet.

This would give you three different options to switch the light to best match your usage requirements.

So far using the lighted push button on the light assembly with power coming from “always on” power port, is easy to use. I really only need the light when I’m standing at the tailgate.

I don’t want to turn an upfitter switch on every time I want to access the cargo area. although you could leave the upfitter switch on and use the push button when you were expecting to access cargo area or turn off the upfitter in longer term storage situations. Also I plan to use the upfitter wire for an external lighting option once/if I get a roof rack.

Too many dang considerations for a simple lighting requirement!
 
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